Did you remember to add seam allowances?

 Lollllllllllll nope 🙃

But it doesn't matter, because I still made pants, even if they tore down the center front when I put them on.  And I can still use them to explain the process of creating them.

I had to screen cap myself from yesterday's video because there were no photos of me in the pants.

MEASUREMENTS

Starting from last month's diagram, I created my own. Depending on what Haithabu article you read, some say that the pants only go down to the knee, and others that they go down to the ankle.  I personally find it more logical to make full length pants that can be zhuzhed up to the knee or left long depending on the weather, so I am going to use the length from waist to ankle for measurement #7.  Measurement #5 is going to be based on the largest circumference (waist or butt) since these pants have no give and need to be pulled up over all your lower topographies.  Because I find 3:1 pleating the simplest, #5 was 3 times the circumference of my butt, divided by 2 (because it is split over both legs).

 The height of B + C is going to be the measurement of your crotch, from bellybutton to top of crack. Add an inch or two depending on how roomy you want them to be.  After that, divide that length by 3.  B will be twice the length of C, and radius of chunk 1 cut out of piece A.  PLUS SEAM ALLOWANCES. DON'T FORGET THE SEAM ALLOWANCES!

Circumference  = pi x diameter = pi x 2 x radius
Circ 1 / (2 pi) = radius 1

 Under that, you go down 3" and you remove radius 9 and cut vertically down from there.

radius 1 + 3"= circumference 9 + height C

height 7 = height 8 + circumference 9 + height C

The radius of curve 1 plus 3" will be equal to the height of C plus the path cut out by curve 9, so that when you add height C plus curve 9 to straight 8, it will be the same distance as height 7.

Now that you have the height of B and C, you need to calculate the width.  The top of B is half the width of the bottom of B.  The top of C is the bottom of B + 6".  The bottom of C (length 4) is half the top of C, which is also the top of B + 3.  I'm going to need to make better diagrams for this...

  

Here you can see piece A at the top, piece B eased into curve 1, and piece C lined up with the bottom of B and the 3" of A. 

 

D is the waist band, that will be the length of your butt circumference and 6" tall so that when you fold it over, you get a 2-3" waist band. 

E are the two calf bands. These I made 9" tall so that they would show 4" long after sewing in and folding in half, and would have enough length to be trapped with the winnegas.

SEWING TOGETHER

1) Sew B into the crotch of A, making sure to ease the fabric.  Do this for both legs.

2) Sew top of C to bottom of B + both 3" of A

3) Sew vertical 7 to vertical 8 + curve 9 of the same leg. 

4) Pleat bottom of A to top of calf E.  Fold over and encase edges.

5) Pleat top of A and B into waste band D.  Fold over and encase edges.

As per several articles, you can choose to add 5 or 6 belt loops to the waste band, especially if you have a greater discrepancy between your waist and your butt.

The striped fabric really helps to show on the back of the pants how C in the center and B down the bottom meet up with A.

Ultimately, I forgot to add seam allowance, I used my waist measurement instead of my butt measurement, and I split the fabric down the front when I put them on -_____-

asdfasf

But I'm glad I did this with the $25 slinky fabric that was impossible to work with and I ended up hating and not the linen!  At least I was able to wear a tunic over them and hold them together with a safety pin for the day. I will give it credit in that the stripes made pleating without having to measure the only plus.

A 22 hour sewing competition? Suuure, why not!

This weekend, Blackstone Raid XXXI was kind enough to indulge the AEthelmearc Clothier's Guild with their first event, Project Promenade. It was such a blast!

I was invited to join a group with Dvorianka Zoya Dragomirova, THL Agnella Iacopi, Lord Arne Burdenson, Baroness Anastasie DeLamoure, and Baron Salvadore de la Torres.  Zoya did an amazing job wrangling a bunch of strangers and coordinating us to recreate this grave find:

She ended up creating a lined silk hat with these amazing wire-woven-but-also-twisted bobbles that some day I'll need to figure out how to make!  Agnella made the two tunics and jumped on the second injection of chaos.  The silk scraps that she chose she was able to include in a very nice chest placard.  Anastasie and Arne also came in clutch on Saturday to help with finishing details, and Salvadore luceted the strap for the bag and his belt, in addition to making a wonderful model.  And lastly, I made pants!

The Haithabu pants I recreated were mostly based on the description from this blog post by Project Broad Axe and this chart I had to screencap from Viking History on YouTube (they claimed it was on their website, but the link was broken):

So, the main measurements I needed were bellybutton to top of crack (length of pieces 2+3), waist to ankle (height of piece 1), widest circumference between thighs and waist (length of 4), and circumference of calves (length of 5).  After that, some simple math so that 4 nests into 1 and you're solid. [Future Magda made another pair of pants and will explain these measurements in detail in the next post].

 

I spent 20 hours hand sewing, but I think it was very well worth it.  The colors, the fit, the drape, it all came together so nicely.  I loved getting to experience this competition, and I was blown away that we won, by one point!  It was a tough battle with very formidable opponents.  I'm hoping next year to be able to be a judge.  Or participate again, who knows :P

I find it hilarious that I even packed both of my emotional support sewing machines, plugged one in, and never used them.

 

 

Hoods and head coverings

Eventually I want to run a small workshop on simple head coverings that would take only a couple of hours to make with very limited skills.  Here are a couple of examples that people are interested in:

Viking (Skjoldehamn) hood

- thorough study

- pattern

- full wardrobe study

- another pattern with measurements

- with decorations
Someone else's instructions:  measure from nose to back of head, then shoulder to top of head that gives you hood size (add +2" to each measure) the shoulder squares are then the same as the nose to back of head measure. With care it can all be cut (and sewn) from one single piece of fabric but separate squares make the seams nicer.

Jorvik (woman's viking) hood

- 10th century silk cap

- Jorvic and Liripipe hoods

St. Birgitta's Huva (cap)

- another tutorial

- tutorial with videos

Cofia y tranzado
- from a simple rectangle

- covered with a second veil

- study of portraits

- another study

Assorted headwear for sale

100 Days of SCA lite

A bunch of friends do A&S challenges, but as much as I love crafting, I also love service.  So after having taken an LOA from derby for the month of May, I realized I had done something SCAdianish every single day.  Here are some of the smaller things and a calendar I will be updating as I go.

1.  Done on April 30 instead of May 1st because I had to give out my final exam. 
• Started to plan a Spanish Trenzado coif.
2. Researched bobbin lace patterns.
3. Pulled out my pillow (purchased and last used in 2008 >.> ) and made my first foot of lace!






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4. Saturday, went to Queen's Rapier Championship
• Did some kamikaze calligraphy over someone else's art.  Not my best work, but I blame it on not having my own equipment and having to cram too many words in a very small space with a failing marker.



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5. Found out that the hat I want to make follows the pattern for a St Birgitta Coif.
6. Found patterns and fabric for the coif.
7. Went to the Spinners Guild meeting and talked with some weavers about the AEWP class I was planning. 
• Hunted down tubers for soups for sideboard.
8. Pinterest hole researching bobbin lace.  
• Found sources for weaving silk.
9. Nithgaard business meeting
• Sliced up All The Tubers.
10. CLEANED.  
• Hardboiled 90 eggs for Crown Tourney. 
• Worked on blanket stitching the edge of the braid case.
11. Crown Tourney, worked kitchen and setup, shenanigans.
12. Peeled and steeped lemons for Limoncello. 
13. Drafted Venetian bodice from saturday's fitting, realized I missed a couple of points >:[
14. Bought some embroidery books at the PSU book sale
• Went to Joanne's for bobbin lace thread.
15. Got 10 books out of the library to use in my weaving class. 
• Decanted and refilled limoncello peels.
16. Nithgaard A&S meeting.  
• Drafted up my weaving class while Andreas taught calligraphy. 
• Finished up limoncello and balanced the flavors.
17. Went to Æ War Practice!  
• Taught my first class "Whatcha' Wanna Weave?".
• Participated in the Brewer's Competition, won the Cordial category (only participant), got good reviews.  Volunteered to start the Boozy Food category.
• Was the Resident Scribe and found supplies for Maddoc to sign in an apprentice.
18. Worked the Scribal breakfast.
• Carved my first soap stone medallion! Thoroughly enjoyed Shea's class and giving him just enough hell for a new teacher to learn. 
• Went to the Brewer's mead tasting class and learned how to give an evaluation.
• Got great tokens at Court for teaching and winning the competition, and a nifty bar towel that I want to embroider the event on for participating.
• Found amazing pickling recipe!
• Made contacts with a pig farmer.
19. Worked the Scribal breakfast, again.
• Caught people to measure for dresses.
20. Made AEWP recap post.
• Researched linen for dresses.
• Made a list of all the projects I need to complete for Pennsic -____-
21. Started making scroll cases from leftover breakfast bread boxes.
22. Bought and washed linen for two kitchen dresses and two chemises.
23. Cut cardboard for 8 scroll cases.
24. Test out camping equipment for Pennsic.
25. Bought fiber for project
26. SCAdian family party.
27. Spent way too much money I don't have on stuff I will probably only ever use for Pennsic (got a roof rack!), dried out the tent.
28. Beet pickled motherfucking three dozen eggs.
29. BLOG ALL OF THE BLOGS!
30. Get 50 cigar boxes for scribal retreat.
31. Sew scroll cases.
    
32. (June 1) Scribal retreat: Macclesfield Psalter Pg 161
    
    
33. (2) Scribal retreat Part 2: Macclesfield Psalter Pg 170
34. (3) Put away everything from the past three weekends, start coordinating feast
35. (4) Ball up weaving silk
36. (5) Emotional Support Drea, talk through summer plans
37. (6) Nithgaard meeting, continue balling up silk
38. (7) Make a bliaut
39. (8) Scarlet Guard Inn
    
40. (9) Go to Pittsburgh Pride, scare Heavy fighters
41. (10) Make SCA resume
42. (11) Warp and start weaving
43. (12) Weave
44. (13) Nithgaard meeting, weave
45. (14) Didn't want to tame my hair, so I made a Birgitta coif and inset the first bobbin lace.
46. (15) Æthelmearc Æcademy 
47. (16) Beer Pickled Eggs
48. (17) Weave
49. (18) Finish weaving!
50. (19) Research "Ancient Deviled Eggs" and krupnik
51. (20) Meeting with Italian White Vine class! Start Om krupnik.
    
52. (21) Try to sell helmets
53. (22) Read about wild fermentation
54. (23) Read about Basque names, order library book
55. (24) Hood class outline
56. (25) Hibiscus mango krupnik, name research, print old handouts
57. (26) Coffee krupnik, Vigil organizing
58. (27) Spicy pickled eggs
59. (28) Make new shirt for Dave
60. (29) Kingdom For My Horse (so much fun!)
61. (30) 
62. (July 1) Buy way too much linen
63. (2) Cut out Helga Ball dress
64. (3) Sew together Helga Ball dress
65. (4) Hand finish seams
66. (5) Pack for PAX, fit dress
67. (6) PAX Interruptus, retaining
68. (7) Add gusset to Helga Ball dress, hunt down pizzelle press
69. (8) Jump on Jen's elevation dress
70. (9) Meet with Jen for fitting
71. (10) Orangello, dress bodice lining
72. (11) Honey Anise eggs, dress kickplate, Nithgaard potluck
73. (12) Bog Three Day, kitchen prep
74. (13) Bog Three Day, kitchen and retaining
75. (14) Venetian bodice
76. (15) Soy eggs, bodice
77. (16) Blueberry cordial, bodice
78. (17) Bodice
79. (18) Chipotle honey mango eggs, bodice
80. (19) National Museum of Art: 16c research
81. (20) Drive back from DC, post pictures
82. (21) Line bodice
83. (22) Line bodice
84. (23) Finish lining bodice
85. (24) Sleeve panels, viking underdress
86. (25) Decant boozes, Sleeve panels, viking underdress
87. (26) Class handout, Sleeve panels, viking underdress
88. (27) Tiki!viking dress and underdress
89. (28) Last viking under dress, and PENNSIC!
90. (29) Æthelmeark hospitality
91. (30) Get weighted loom form Hrolfr, start new set of garters.
92. (31) Take classes (Aztec Illumination)
93. (August 1) continue weaving
94. (2) Morning Troll, airport
95. (3) Archery, Process at Opening Ceremonies with BMDL, man radios at the Watch
96. (4) Finish apron dress, stamp cabbages on 28 aprons, HOLY SHIT SERVE VIGIL
97. (5) Finish weaving garters, stage makeup for Comedia
98. (6) Retain for TRH at Great Court
99. (7) Teach class, Cartridge pleat Venetian, serve Seven Pearls dinner
100. (8) Attach skirt to bodice, party like a Roman
101. (9) Tear down Æthelmeark Royal, host krupnic "competition"
102. (10) Close up camp and drive home.
103. (11) Three loads of laundry, two of dishes, put bulk items away

Plus so many things I forgot at Pennsic. I took Owen's whitework illumination class, Nicola's died parchment class, Aztec illumination and costuming, and German hats!  It was exhausting, amazing, and probably going to continue.

Viking (and Cranach)

 Yesterday was Easter, but the previous two weekends I went to SCA events.  The first one was Coronation and Anna Leigh's Strawberry Party, for which I made a Viking apron dress.  I lucked out and got the pink wool from Cassie because it was too scratchy for her, and it matched Ye Olde Bliaut I've been working on for five year enough to use it as an under dress.  I used the beads I strung for my Valhalla Back Girl costume from Rollercon last year and the ones I made myself about three Pennsics ago? Unfortunately that string broke at the Strawberry Pizza Party and I had to restring them for Ice Dragon, but Vera Fischer was amazing and gave me three new beads!  I also got a fantastic shot glass from Honnoria Thescorre (Gayle A. Erwin) with a mermaid and boobies ^_^ that is now hanging on a chatelaine. 

Because I am super vain and don't particularly care for Viking attire, I completely cheated.  Yes, they would have used pleating to store up excess fabric that can be let out when pregnant, and I used it to hide in princess seams.  They look straight up and down, but the secret is in how you tuck the fabric inside the pleat.  

I also wove trim!  Simple tablet chevrons.  I learned a lot about decisions I need to make before starting a new weaving project and I want to teach it at War Practice.  I need to get my shit together -_____-  But I'm glad that this all came together in just one week.  I'm impressed!

I also finally managed to wear my Cranach for Coronation!  And I forgot to pack the padded bra it was sized with.  It looked ok, but I have so many ideas of things I want to improve.  Of course.

Tall Collar Cranach pt 1

This weekend was the Region One 12th Night: Fire & Ice celebration and it was amazing!  I spent twelve hours in the kitchen with some great people, stood through court while Cas got awarded arms, and all in all had a fabulous time with all the shenanigans.  What I didn't do was wear the Cranach gown I made in six days >.>

I'd never previously made a Cranach dress (nor researched them) nor had I ever made anything with a collar, so I was very neurotic trying to get started.  I figured I could try to modify a Simplicity pattern for an Elizabethan coat/gown, but still just continued to freak myself out through Saturday.

I then decided to roll pleat my skirt Sunday until I could find knowledgeable help. Five yards of silver velvet that I found at Surplus City for $1.99/yard, minus 20% through January. Yay!

Monday I finally managed to pounce on the most wonderful Kiera (aka Baroness Seley (aaka my favorite Feathertwat)), who makes Cranach dresses in her sleep, borrow her basic bodice pattern and get it perfectly fit in a matter of hours.  

The next few days I proceeded to encase the front of the bodice and realized just how much I hate encasing.  And I managed to shove a needle into my finger, eye first, 1/4", and bleed on the fabric >:[

I decided to help myself out with the sleeves and use Elmer's fabric glue before cutting the slashes so that the fabric wouldn't fray.  After my final fitting on Wednesday, I decided to only slash the elbow and not the shoulder, but there's always a chance that might change in the future.  

The last thing I made was a "back up Brusefleck" just out of the contrast flocked satin, in case I didn't have time to bead the one I wanted to make out of black velvet.  Which of course I didn't make because I got home at 1 am and woke up at 7 Friday to get things ready and on the road.  I don't have a finished picture of the dress with the sleeves attached or of me wearing it, so I guess I'll just have to find another event to go show it off!

There is also something to be said about Landsknech and miles of linen protecting my crotch from incinerating while making grilled cheeses for 160? people for a whole hour.

ROOOOOOOOMAN

There's been a lot of impromptu SCA sewing since this summer, and I have forgotten to document all of it >.>

This week was Aethelmeark Coronation, for which we wanted to dress in Roman in support of Anna Leigh's ascent.  I found three yards of purple linen in my stash and some sari trim Dani had given me and put them together into an under dress. I also used a sari from my stash to wear as an over dress (toga) with veil.  Even when I'm "quickly throwing something together out of my stash", I still take 8 hours to meticulously hand sew the trim on.

I also found myself as part of the slave labor crash team putting together Sven and Sioban's step-down clothes. 12 more hours of meticulously sewing on bias tape and trim!  Other people did the embroidery and tablet weaving and construction, and it was GORGEOUS. And that wooooool...

And the last thing I haven't documented is the doublet I made this summer to wear under my armor.  I loved it so much that I also made pants to wear with it (and, of course, a codpiece).  I wore them as a set once at the beginning of Pennsic, then strapped my arms onto the doublet and haven't pulled it out since -_-  The pants have been getting some regular wear though, so I want to make another doublet that is better fit now that I understand the pattern.  I've also been commissioned by Gary to make a Juan Sanchez Villalobos Ramirez outfit once the linen comes in.

Best thing about this weekend was freaking out people with my dick cheese.  It was beyond amazing.