2026-06-01

Cheese!

This weekend was spent assisting a demo for the Girl Scouts, and it was amazing!  I helped Katerine feed all the volunteers by cooking kebabs, I spatchcocked a chicken, and the flatbreads poofed up so nicely ^_^

 

AND THEN I MADE CHEESE.  

 

 The first batch I was extremely cautious and it took me three or four hours to bring the milk up to temperature and probably five times as much vinegar.  After straining, it was mixed with fresh garden herbs.

 

The second batch I put a lot more coal under the pot and got it to boil and curdle in an hour.  I mixed in the leftover honey syrup from the spiced cookies.  It sucked the orange out of the cookies and it was AMAZING.

Third batch maybe took 45 minutes, tops, and was enjoyed plain.  We started to philosophize about how different acids could affect the taste, which I plan to try out with the two leftover gallons of milk.  I know I have white and apple vinegars, maybe rice, and maybe lemon juice? But I'll have to unfreeze that.  I also have balsamic, but that might be a much stronger flavor.  I wonder if I can still find a bottle that someone gave me of a vinegared garlic wine? 

2026-05-25

Makgeolli and the 2026 A&S Queen's Prize

 

Makgeolli (pronounced like MAK-g-li) is a Korean rice wine ~15% ABV (before diluting) commonly brewed at home with sweet rice, nuruk, and water which according to takjoo.wordpress.com literally means "a roughly filtered thing", with a Japanese version of the same called makkori.  "Makgeolli has historically also been a drink to divide social classes, with diluted takju, commonly recognized as ‘makgeolli’ - being made by and served to farmers, and the clearer, stronger cheongju, which keeps longer and matures in a way that takju typically does not, being served to the Yangban, or aristocracy.  [... This] brewing process [...] is more accurately called Wonju, which consists of two distinct layers that can be seen when the strained alcohol settles: a top, transparent and often yellow layer called cheongju, which can be served separately or distilled to make Soju, and a lower sedimentary layer called takju, which is typically diluted to a weaker strength according to the taste of the brewer. While ‘makgeolli’ is sometimes used as a casual catch all phrase for any sediment-containing Korean alcohol, again, it more specifically refers to diluted takju" 

The website www.hanamakgeolli.com has a glossary of brewing terms that I hope to explore further in the future.

 

"RESEARCH" 

According to an initial Wikipedia search,"Makgeolli is the oldest alcoholic beverage in Korea. Rice wine has been brewed since the Three Kingdoms era, which ran from the 1st century BCE to the 7th century CE. The consumption of rice wine during the reign of King Dongmyeong (37–19 BCE) is mentioned in the founding story of the kingdom of Goguryeo in Jewang ungi (Songs of Emperors and Kings), a 13th-century Goryeo Korean book." "Another 12th-century Chinese book, Illustrated Account of Goryeo, reports that Korean rice wine that is made with nuruk is deeper in color [than cheongju] and has a higher alcohol content; it says that when drinking this wine one gets drunk quickly and sobers up quickly. This book says that clear, refined rice wine was made in the royal court, while milky, unrefined rice wine was more popular among commoners."

Nuruk is a grain base (commonly wheat) fermentation starter that is inoculated with: 

  • Rhizopus oryzae mold spores that produce protease and lipase enzymes to break down proteins and fat in the outer layers of rice 
  • Aspergillus mold spores that produce amylase enzymes that break down the starches in the inner portions of the rice into sugar
  • wild yeast (like Picia anomala and Saccharomyces cervisiae) that turn the sugar into alcohol, and
  • lactobacilli bacteria, which create lactic acid to sour the wine and add complexity to the flavor.

Also from Wikipedia, "Nuruk has been used in Korea since the period of the Three Kingdoms in the 3rd century CE, while similar fermentation starter, jiuqu, was first made in China during the Warring States period beginning in the 5th century BCE. Chinese history records the first use of nuruk in Korea in 1123 CE."

 

FIRST BREWING OF MAKGEOLLI

My first attempt followed this video on YouTube by Johnny Kyunghwo: 

1) wash rice until water flows relatively clear

2) soak rice over night (or at least two hours), drain for a good while

3) steam rice until al dente and let cool to "under body temperature", break apart clumps.

4) in a large pot, mix equal parts dry rice and water, plus 10% nuruk, by hand until well incorporated into a homogenized sludge.

 

5) put in fermentation jars with an open lid covered with cheese cloth (I used a loose lid instead)

 

6) once or twice a day, mix up the contents for three or four days.  Contents will begin to bubble and separate with a middle layer of liquid.

7) after a week, remove the solids and squeeze as much liquid out as possible.  You can use a cheese cloth, though I used a strainer and brute force.

8) the milky liquid is now ready to drink, but will continue to change in flavor profile as it ages. Place in bottles in the fridge and burp regularly.  Particulates will settle out, which can be mixed back in or decanted out.

 

The first quart bottle we drank was at the two week mark.  It was very sweet and with a relatively green nutty flavor.  The large gallon was left on the counter with a bubbler for a third week to ferment before being split into two bottles and the flavor got significantly more pithy/citrus like. I personally prefer something in between the two and three week marks.

 

A&S FAIRE 

I was encouraged at the last minute to enter the A&S Faire and Queen's Prize, which was a lovely experience.  Having only done basic Wikipedia, YouTube, and Reddit "research" in order to kick off a brew and figure out if it was worth pursuing in earnest, the advisers that visited my table asked wonderful questions that I was also already chewing on.  I now have a 15kg bag of sweet mochi rice, new nuruk, and old mash that I am curious if I can use like a sourdough "starter" by just adding plain amylase. And I want to get a "round" of makgeollis started a week apart so I can compare at the 1/2/3/4 week points at the same time, and figure out how long before it goes to vinegar.

2025-11-09

A Tale of Two Cisers

At the end of April, I picked up honey and cider from the local farmer's market, mixed them with Mangrove Jack's Cider Yeast -M02-, and had an epically successful ciser in exactly one month! 


In mid September, I tried to replicate my success threefold with the same honey, but with a jug of cider from the supermarket. The first week, it was Extremely Active!  And then it went flat.  I'd even added yeast nutrient when I put it together. After six weeks, I decanted the three gallons and let the solids settle out a few days with the goal to flavor each gallon differently.

 Welp.  Lets call this a learning experience.

Somehow, the cider went to vinegar, while the honey remained sirrupy.  Not bad?  It actually tasted like a very decent sekunjabin, even though I went the long way about it >.>

I cornered my favorite expert at Corn Maze yesterday, Rastaslar, and we deduced a scenario why this happened.  The simple sugars in the cider were digested very quickly, especially with the added nutrient.  Once they were finished, the temperature crashed in late September, making all of the yeast fall out before it could get a hold of the more complex sugars in the honey.

So, as it stands, he took a gallon of the stuff and I'm going to play around with the other two gallons.  Now that I turned on the heat in the house, I should be able to add yeast again and keep it from crashing.  

20250911 - 20251029

  • 1484g (3lb 4oz) honey (~4 cups)
  • 1 gal Beak and Skiff apple cider
  • 1 packet Mangrove Jack's Cider Yeast M02
  • 2 TBSP Fermax Yeast Nutrient
  • Filtered and boiled water up to 3 gal.
  • starting specific gravity of 54 

20251109

  • split in two 1gal jugs
  • Add to each:
  • 110g of honey dissolved in a mug of warm water and
  • 6g Mangrove Jack's Mead Yeast -M05- until foamed
  • starting specific gravity of 62  

 

I couldn't get the specific gravity in between because I somehow kicked up the dormant yeast while trying to pour it into the tube and it kept effervescing, but the lowest number I could read was 60.  I also started pouring the leftovers into some jars to settle out the sediments, but figured I might as well put them into a fliptop and attempt a "secondary fermentation" with just the yeast it already had, because why not.

20260525 update:  This mostly got abandoned due to holiday travel and moving, but I never really got any activity even in November.  I got a vineometer today and checked the old settled bottles for alcohol and they never recovered from the vinegar.  Which is sad, because they smelled amazing!

2025-07-08

It's not even a yard long.

 If you remember this post from January 2024, I finally finished the stupid belt!  Mind you, I finished the weaving part at some undetermined point before I moved that July (and again this March), took it to Every Single SCA Event with the intention of cutting it off, and didn't manage to actually do that until this past July 5th at Blades and Brews 2. 


 

2025-06-25

BOOK

 
A month ago, I was entrusted to make a vigil book for my BFF's knighting, and it was fun!

I started by ordering some hand recycled paper, 5.5 x 11", and folded it in half, using the edge of a credit card to get a good crease in it.  I used six signatures with four papers each.

Pro tip: the reticulated mat really helped me figure out what "half" was since all the papers were wonky, and all in a few different directions. 

I then measured out six punctures (half an inch from the edge and a full inch between holes) and used an awl to go as perpendicular to the spine as possible.  I cut a piece of leather the same height as the folded signatures (5.5") and long enough to wrap around the whole thing, and then mirrored the punctures with the awl.
 
I followed this video about coptic binding relatively through, especially with how it instructed to sew the signatures together with artificial sinew on any needle that will take it.  I was originally going to use a tapestry needle, but it was too thick and I didn't want to ream the holes.
 
You start one hole off from the end and go from outside the spine to the inside of the signature, and back out the edge hole. Then go into the corresponding hole in the leather, go back up through the second hole, and tie to the end of the sinew before going back in to the spine. Running stitch baste the signature and the leather until you reach the end. 
When you reach the end, you add another signature and this time follow the motions of a sewing machine, where you go down into the hole of the new signature, around the stitch right under it, and then back up through the same hole you came from (also similar to naalbinding).  Go through each hole until the end, and then step up and change direction again.  Once you've added all the signatures, time to do a running stitch through the leather, mirroring the path of the first row, and then tying off the sinew and tossing the tail into the spine. 
Lastly, I added a strap of leather that I could tie closed and painted his arms on the second page (so that the leather wouldn't rub it off if it was on the very first page).
 
I am very proud of my first attempt at book binding (and that I convinced myself to not make the paper from scratch (I only had one sheet of parchment I had made a few Pennsics ago and that wouldn't have been appropriate for random people scribbling at a vigil)).  I now have copious materials for making more books!  And I want to try the ones with fancy covers. 

2024-10-04

The alt YOGT saga

 I had the amazing privilege a month ago to work in the main kitchen for the whole weekend of Known World Cooks & Bards.  The spoils of war, so to speak, that I got to take home were about four gallons of assorted milk containers that had been opened through the weekend and barely used.  All was fine and dandy, until my refrigerator gave up the smoke and I no longer had frozen milk.  So, why not try to preserve some by turning it into yogurt?

I found this recipe online that basically says to use it the same as cow's milk* with some probiotic starter (I used some Pumpkin Spice kefir I was finishing up), but that you'll want to add some gelatin thickener to get it to set.

 It was, questionable.  But I gave it a chance.  I poured it into a narrower container, stuck it into the Science Fridge, and then poured out the... it isn't whey because this isn't milk... oat water? every couple of days. 


After a week, I was able to condense it from 32 oz to just 10, where it was runny but finally had some semblance of body.  In the interim, I made two more batches of yogurt, this time with my regular condensed milk.  The first version, I added a healthy dose of whipping cream that had also not survived the freezer.  It was interesting?  But I realized there is a maximum amount of milk fat that has an ok mouth feel before you're just sucking on a stick of butter.  I used maybe an ounce left of that for the final batch I made last night, which still came out robust but tolerable.

For breakfast, I put a couple of ounces of the cow yogurt into the oat yogurt, mixed it up, and poured it over my Boo Berry for quite the delightful breakfast.

Takeaways:
- Yes, alternative milk yogurts are decent, but will require a lot of straining.
- No, more fat isn't always the answer.
- I'm going to try equal parts of almond milk and evaporated milk next week and try to find a good balance.

* My basic recipe is to just use a spoon or two of any live culture yogurt (most often than not kefir), mix it in with a can of condensed milk (or is it evaporated?  The one that does not have added sugar), and stick it in the Instant Pot on the standard YOGT setting for 8-12 hours over night, mixing at some point in the middle.  And refrigerate.

2024-05-12

Did you remember to add seam allowances?

 Lollllllllllll nope 🙃

But it doesn't matter, because I still made pants, even if they tore down the center front when I put them on.  And I can still use them to explain the process of creating them.

I had to screen cap myself from yesterday's video because there were no photos of me in the pants.


MEASUREMENTS

Starting from last month's diagram, I created my own. Depending on what Haithabu article you read, some say that the pants only go down to the knee, and others that they go down to the ankle.  I personally find it more logical to make full length pants that can be zhuzhed up to the knee or left long depending on the weather, so I am going to use the length from waist to ankle for measurement #7.  Measurement #5 is going to be based on the largest circumference (waist or butt) since these pants have no give and need to be pulled up over all your lower topographies.  Because I find 3:1 pleating the simplest, #5 was 3 times the circumference of my butt, divided by 2 (because it is split over both legs).


 The height of B + C is going to be the measurement of your crotch, from bellybutton to top of crack. Add an inch or two depending on how roomy you want them to be.  After that, divide that length by 3.  B will be twice the length of C, and radius of chunk 1 cut out of piece A.  PLUS SEAM ALLOWANCES. DON'T FORGET THE SEAM ALLOWANCES!

Circumference  = pi x diameter = pi x 2 x radius
Circ 1 / (2 pi) = radius 1

 Under that, you go down 3" and you remove radius 9 and cut vertically down from there.

radius 1 + 3"= circumference 9 + height C

height 7 = height 8 + circumference 9 + height C

The radius of curve 1 plus 3" will be equal to the height of C plus the path cut out by curve 9, so that when you add height C plus curve 9 to straight 8, it will be the same distance as height 7.

Now that you have the height of B and C, you need to calculate the width.  The top of B is half the width of the bottom of B.  The top of C is the bottom of B + 6".  The bottom of C (length 4) is half the top of C, which is also the top of B + 3.  I'm going to need to make better diagrams for this...

  

Here you can see piece A at the top, piece B eased into curve 1, and piece C lined up with the bottom of B and the 3" of A. 

 

D is the waist band, that will be the length of your butt circumference and 6" tall so that when you fold it over, you get a 2-3" waist band. 

E are the two calf bands. These I made 9" tall so that they would show 4" long after sewing in and folding in half, and would have enough length to be trapped with the winnegas.


SEWING TOGETHER

1) Sew B into the crotch of A, making sure to ease the fabric.  Do this for both legs.
2) Sew top of C to bottom of B + both 3" of A
3) Sew vertical 7 to vertical 8 + curve 9 of the same leg. 
4) Pleat bottom of A to top of calf E.  Fold over and encase edges.
5) Pleat top of A and B into waste band D.  Fold over and encase edges.

As per several articles, you can choose to add 5 or 6 belt loops to the waste band, especially if you have a greater discrepancy between your waist and your butt.

The striped fabric really helps to show on the back of the pants how C in the center and B down the bottom meet up with A.



Ultimately, I forgot to add seam allowance, I used my waist measurement instead of my butt measurement, and I split the fabric down the front when I put them on -_____-

asdfasf

But I'm glad I did this with the $25 slinky fabric that was impossible to work with and I ended up hating and not the linen!  At least I was able to wear a tunic over them and hold them together with a safety pin for the day. I will give it credit in that the stripes made pleating without having to measure the only plus.